Greece

Order a Greek native grape: most have no twin at home.

Most Greek vines are local varieties - Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, Agiorgitiko, Moschofilero - so a list of unfamiliar names is the point. Ask for the local white or red and you taste something you cannot get anywhere else.

Most Greek vines are local varieties - Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, Agiorgitiko, Moschofilero - so a list of unfamiliar names is the point. Ask for the local white or red and you taste something you cannot get anywhere else.

Greece is a value country: the mainland is cheaper than the islands.

Island wines, Santorini above all, cost more because crops are tiny and tourism is heavy. Mainland zones such as Nemea, Naoussa and Mantinia give serious wines for much less.

Island wines, Santorini above all, cost more because crops are tiny and tourism is heavy. Mainland zones such as Nemea, Naoussa and Mantinia give serious wines for much less.

House wine from the carafe is fine at a family taverna.

Ask for the house wine (krasi tou spitiou) by the half-litre or litre: cheap, local and made for the table. When you want to learn a grape or a place, order a bottle instead, because the label tells you what you drank.

Ask for the house wine (krasi tou spitiou) by the half-litre or litre: cheap, local and made for the table. When you want to learn a grape or a place, order a bottle instead, because the label tells you what you drank.

Look for PDO (ΠΟΠ) or PGI (ΠΓΕ): both guarantee origin.

PDO is the tighter tier for named places and set grapes; PGI is the broader regional tier. Many of Greece's most creative wines are PGI, so the lower tier is no warning sign.

PDO is the tighter tier for named places and set grapes; PGI is the broader regional tier. Many of Greece's most creative wines are PGI, so the lower tier is no warning sign.

Salty, windswept island whites and sweet Muscat from the east Aegean.

The Cyclades are led by Santorini's volcanic Assyrtiko, with smaller wines from Paros and Tinos. Further east, Samos and Lemnos are known for sweet Muscat, and Rhodes and Kos make smaller quantities of wine.

The Cyclades are led by Santorini's volcanic Assyrtiko, with smaller wines from Paros and Tinos. Further east, Samos and Lemnos are known for sweet Muscat, and Rhodes and Kos make smaller quantities of wine.

Santorini · Paros · Tinos · Samos · Lemnos · Rhodes · Kos

Style: Wind-swept island whites; sweet Muscat in the east

Look for: Santorini Assyrtiko, Vinsanto, Muscat of Samos, Lemnos Muscat and Limnio

Greece's biggest island: textured Vidiano whites and warm, spicy reds.

Mountains running the length of Crete bring cooler conditions than its latitude suggests, and most vineyards face north. The foothills behind Heraklion make most of the wine; local grapes such as Vidiano, Vilana, Kotsifali and Mandilaria give the island its own style.

Mountains running the length of Crete bring cooler conditions than its latitude suggests, and most vineyards face north. The foothills behind Heraklion make most of the wine; local grapes such as Vidiano, Vilana, Kotsifali and Mandilaria give the island its own style.

Heraklion hills (Peza, Archanes, Dafnes) · Sitia · Chania

Style: Sunny island with cool mountain sites; Vidiano whites, Kotsifali-Mandilaria reds

Look for: Vidiano, Vilana, Kotsifali-Mandilaria blends, Liatiko, Sitia Assyrtiko

Greece's cool north: firm, age-worthy Xinomavro and fresh rosé.

Xinomavro is the star of the north: Naoussa on the slopes of Mount Vermio and Amyntaio on a higher plateau, plus the smaller Goumenissa. Amyntaio is also the place for Xinomavro rosé and sparkling wine, and aromatic whites such as Malagousia are made nearby.

Xinomavro is the star of the north: Naoussa on the slopes of Mount Vermio and Amyntaio on a higher plateau, plus the smaller Goumenissa. Amyntaio is also the place for Xinomavro rosé and sparkling wine, and aromatic whites such as Malagousia are made nearby.

Naoussa · Amyntaio · Goumenissa · Halkidiki · Florina

Style: Cooler, continental: Xinomavro reds, rosé and sparkling; aromatic whites

Look for: Naoussa Xinomavro, Amyntaio Xinomavro (red, rosé, sparkling), Goumenissa, Malagousia

Retsina country around Athens, plus Rapsani reds on Mount Olympus.

The plains around Athens grow Savatiano, Greece's most planted white and the base of Retsina. Rapsani, on the slopes of Mount Olympus, makes a spicy red blend led by Xinomavro. Malagousia was rediscovered in Central Greece.

The plains around Athens grow Savatiano, Greece's most planted white and the base of Retsina. Rapsani, on the slopes of Mount Olympus, makes a spicy red blend led by Xinomavro. Malagousia was rediscovered in Central Greece.

Rapsani (Mount Olympus) · Attica · Evia · Boeotia · Nafpaktia

Style: Home of Retsina and Savatiano; Rapsani reds on Olympus

Look for: Retsina, Dry Savatiano, Rapsani

Soft Agiorgitiko reds, floral Moschofilero whites and sweet Mavrodaphne.

The mainland peninsula with the most famous names after Santorini. Nemea makes plummy Agiorgitiko, the cool Mantinia plateau makes perfumed Moschofilero, and Patras is known for sweet Mavrodaphne and Muscat.

The mainland peninsula with the most famous names after Santorini. Nemea makes plummy Agiorgitiko, the cool Mantinia plateau makes perfumed Moschofilero, and Patras is known for sweet Mavrodaphne and Muscat.

Nemea · Mantinia · Patras (Achaia)

Style: Agiorgitiko reds, floral Moschofilero whites, sweet Mavrodaphne

Look for: Nemea Agiorgitiko, Mantinia Moschofilero, Mavrodaphne of Patras, Muscat of Patras

Green, limestone islands: crisp Robola and sweet Mavrodaphne and Muscat.

Cephalonia is the wine heart of the Ionian: dry Robola from limestone slopes on Mount Ainos, plus sweet Mavrodaphne and Muscat. Zakynthos is known for the white Verdea, Corfu for white wines and Lefkada for red.

Cephalonia is the wine heart of the Ionian: dry Robola from limestone slopes on Mount Ainos, plus sweet Mavrodaphne and Muscat. Zakynthos is known for the white Verdea, Corfu for white wines and Lefkada for red.

Cephalonia · Zakynthos · Corfu · Lefkada

Style: Limestone whites, sweet Mavrodaphne and Muscat; island reds

Look for: Robola of Cephalonia, Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia, Muscat of Cephalonia, Verdea (Zakynthos)

Outliers: cool, rainy Epirus and the Dodecanese islands.

Epirus in the north-west is the coolest and wettest part of Greece; Zitsa is known for the white Debina. The Dodecanese islands Rhodes and Kos make smaller amounts of island wine.

Epirus in the north-west is the coolest and wettest part of Greece; Zitsa is known for the white Debina. The Dodecanese islands Rhodes and Kos make smaller amounts of island wine.

Zitsa (Epirus) · Rhodes · Kos

Style: Small, cool-mountain and island outliers

Look for: Debina (Zitsa), Mandilaria (Rhodes)

Find the zone first: ΠΟΠ or ΠΓΕ, then the grape.

Most Greek labels show the producer, a grape, and the zone with its PDO or PGI mark. When the zone is a famous one, such as Naoussa or Nemea, it also tells you the grape.

Most Greek labels show the producer, a grape, and the zone with its PDO or PGI mark. When the zone is a famous one, such as Naoussa or Nemea, it also tells you the grape.

Tip: Order: producer, grape, PDO or PGI zone, then style words

Spellings vary: Xinomavro is also Xynomavro, Naoussa is Naousa.

Greek names are transliterated, so the same grape or place can be spelled several ways (Assyrtiko/Assirtiko, Xinomavro/Xynomavro, Naoussa/Naousa). Search by sound, not by exact spelling.

Greek names are transliterated, so the same grape or place can be spelled several ways (Assyrtiko/Assirtiko, Xinomavro/Xynomavro, Naoussa/Naousa). Search by sound, not by exact spelling.

Tip: Try the alternative spelling when a search comes up empty

Oak and age words matter more than vintage hype on a Greek back label.

Words such as Reserve, Grand Reserve, Cava or a barrel mention tell you the wine has been aged before release. A bare grape and zone name usually means a fresher style.

Words such as Reserve, Grand Reserve, Cava or a barrel mention tell you the wine has been aged before release. A bare grape and zone name usually means a fresher style.

Tip: Look for the ageing word on the front or back label

PDO (ΠΟΠ): the top tier, a named zone with set grapes.

Greece uses the EU system. A PDO wine comes from a defined zone, mostly from local grapes, and has to pass tasting before release. Classic names such as Santorini, Naoussa, Nemea and Mantinia are all PDOs.

Greece uses the EU system. A PDO wine comes from a defined zone, mostly from local grapes, and has to pass tasting before release. Classic names such as Santorini, Naoussa, Nemea and Mantinia are all PDOs.

Wine from a named zone made to that zone's rules for grapes and style

Spot it: 'ΠΟΠ' or 'PDO' plus the zone name; the older red neck band may also appear

PGI (ΠΓΕ): broader regional wine, with more freedom.

PGI covers a larger area, such as Peloponnese, Crete or Cyclades, with looser grape rules. Producers who blend local and international grapes, or make styles a PDO does not allow, work here, and many of the results are excellent.

PGI covers a larger area, such as Peloponnese, Crete or Cyclades, with looser grape rules. Producers who blend local and international grapes, or make styles a PDO does not allow, work here, and many of the results are excellent.

Regional wine from a larger named area with fewer restrictions

Spot it: 'ΠΓΕ' or 'PGI' with a region name

Epitrapezios Oinos: basic table wine with no named origin.

The entry tier carries no zone or tested origin. The label tells you little, and the tier says nothing about quality, so judge by producer and price.

The entry tier carries no zone or tested origin. The label tells you little, and the tier says nothing about quality, so judge by producer and price.

Basic table wine without a protected origin

Spot it: 'Επιτραπέζιος Οίνος' or 'Table wine' with no PDO or PGI

Samos, Patras, Cephalonia: on a sweet-wine name, the zone means sweet.

Several Greek zones are defined by a sweet style: Muscat of Samos, Muscat and Mavrodaphne of Patras, and Muscat and Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia. Some are fortified, so check the label before serving one with the main course.

Several Greek zones are defined by a sweet style: Muscat of Samos, Muscat and Mavrodaphne of Patras, and Muscat and Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia. Some are fortified, so check the label before serving one with the main course.

Zone names that stand for a sweet Muscat or Mavrodaphne wine

Spot it: 'Muscat of ...' or 'Mavrodaphne of ...' with a place name

PDO means the classic version of a place; PGI is where freedom lives.

Greece's PDOs protect traditional zones and mostly require local grapes. Producers who want to blend, add international varieties or work outside a zone's rules use PGI, so some ambitious bottles carry the lower tier.

Greece's appellation system dates from the early 1970s, when the first zones were drawn around classic wines: Santorini, Nemea, Mantinia, Naoussa and a handful of others. Most PDOs name specific local grapes, often a single one, and fix the style. That clarity helps the traveler: Naoussa means Xinomavro, Nemea means Agiorgitiko and Mantinia means Moschofilero. It also means a PDO can feel like a box. A grower who wants to blend Agiorgitiko with Syrah, add Sauvignon Blanc to Assyrtiko, or make an orange Savatiano will often go to a regional PGI such as Peloponnese, Macedonia or Attiki instead, so the wine can look humble on paper. Read PDO as the classic expression of a place, and PGI as the producer's own idea. Neither tier is a ranking of quality; the producer still decides that.

PDO signals tradition and place; PGI signals the producer's freedom to experiment

Spot it: A famous estate wine labelled only 'PGI' and a regional name is often a deliberate choice

Ktima means estate: a producer growing its own grapes.

You will see Ktima before many producer names (Ktima ... ), the Greek equivalent of domaine or chateau. It points to an estate that makes wine from its own vineyards.

You will see Ktima before many producer names (Ktima ... ), the Greek equivalent of domaine or chateau. It points to an estate that makes wine from its own vineyards.

Wine estate

Watch out: Some big merchants also use it as a brand name

Reserve and Grand Reserve: longer aged before release.

Reserve and Grand Reserve (Επιλεγμένος, Ειδικά Επιλεγμένος) mean the wine spent longer ageing in oak and bottle before it was sold, Grand Reserve the longest. Expect rounder, deeper wine, mostly in reds.

Reserve and Grand Reserve (Επιλεγμένος, Ειδικά Επιλεγμένος) mean the wine spent longer ageing in oak and bottle before it was sold, Grand Reserve the longest. Expect rounder, deeper wine, mostly in reds.

Longer-aged versions of a PDO wine

Watch out: For fresh, fruit-led wine pick the plain bottling; the exact ageing differs from zone to zone

Cava on a Greek label means aged wine, not Spanish fizz.

Cava (Κάβα) is a protected Greek term for still wine aged under controlled conditions, seen mostly on regional wines and mainland reds. It has no link to Spanish Cava.

Cava (Κάβα) is a protected Greek term for still wine aged under controlled conditions, seen mostly on regional wines and mainland reds. It has no link to Spanish Cava.

Greek traditional term for a wine that has been aged

Watch out: Do not expect bubbles

Xiros is dry, imixiros off-dry and glykos sweet.

The back label gives sweetness in Greek: ξηρός (xiros) is dry, ημίξηρος (imixiros) off-dry and γλυκός (glykos) sweet. Most table wines you will meet are dry.

The back label gives sweetness in Greek: ξηρός (xiros) is dry, ημίξηρος (imixiros) off-dry and γλυκός (glykos) sweet. Most table wines you will meet are dry.

Dry / off-dry / sweet

Watch out: Sweet Greek wines are named by style and zone, such as Vinsanto or Muscat of Samos

Lefko is white, kokkino is red, roze is rosé.

In tavernas you order by colour: λευκό (lefko) white, κόκκινο (kokkino) red and ροζέ (roze) rosé. On bottles the formal words are Οίνος Λευκός and Οίνος Ερυθρός.

In tavernas you order by colour: λευκό (lefko) white, κόκκινο (kokkino) red and ροζέ (roze) rosé. On bottles the formal words are Οίνος Λευκός and Οίνος Ερυθρός.

White / red / rosé

Watch out: Red can be written ερυθρός (erythros) on labels

Vin doux and liqueur wines are sweet and often fortified.

Greek sweet reds and Muscats come in two kinds: naturally sweet wines from dried grapes and fortified ones in which spirit stops the fermentation. Mavrodaphne of Patras and Muscat of Samos are well-known fortified examples.

Greek sweet reds and Muscats come in two kinds: naturally sweet wines from dried grapes and fortified ones in which spirit stops the fermentation. Mavrodaphne of Patras and Muscat of Samos are well-known fortified examples.

Sweet wine whose fermentation is stopped with grape spirit

Watch out: Check the label before serving it with the main course; it belongs with dessert

Retsina (Ρετσίνα): wine flavoured with pine resin.

Retsina gets its piney, herbal taste from resin added during fermentation, traditionally to Savatiano. It is a classic of Athens tavernas, and the best bottled versions are far cleaner than the old jug wine.

Retsina gets its piney, herbal taste from resin added during fermentation, traditionally to Savatiano. It is a classic of Athens tavernas, and the best bottled versions are far cleaner than the old jug wine.

Wine flavoured with Aleppo pine resin

Watch out: Serve it very cold; barrel 'retsina' at a taverna can be hit or miss

Producer-bottled wine or loose wine: bottled costs more but tells you more.

In Greece wine is sold either in a labelled bottle, which names the grape, place and producer, or loose from the barrel by the carafe or kilo. The first is for learning and taking home; the second is for the table.

In Greece wine is sold either in a labelled bottle, which names the grape, place and producer, or loose from the barrel by the carafe or kilo. The first is for learning and taking home; the second is for the table.

Labelled bottle versus house wine from the barrel

Watch out: Loose wine can be excellent, but you cannot buy it again at home

A Greek zone name often tells you the grape and the style.

Many Greek PDOs are tied to one grape: Naoussa to Xinomavro, Nemea to Agiorgitiko, Mantinia to Moschofilero. Goumenissa and Rapsani are blends, and Amyntaio is the one for rosé.

Greek appellation names work as shorthand once you know the pairs. Naoussa is red Xinomavro from the slopes of Mount Vermio, and only red. Amyntaio, on a higher and cooler plateau, is also Xinomavro, but it is the one zone that includes still and sparkling rosé. Goumenissa blends Xinomavro with Negoska, which softens the structure. Rapsani, on Mount Olympus, blends Xinomavro with Krassato and Stavroto. Nemea is Agiorgitiko, and altitude decides the style, from soft and fruity on the low slopes to fresher and longer-lived higher up. Mantinia is mostly Moschofilero, grown on a cool plateau, and can also be sparkling. Robola of Cephalonia is the only Greek zone named after a single grape. If a label says one of these names, you already know most of what is in the bottle.

The appellation name implies the grape and style

Watch out: Do not expect the grape on the label to be the whole story: Goumenissa and Rapsani blend with local partners

Assyrtiko: Greece's star white - lemon, flint, salt and real weight.

Keeps very high acidity even in heat and gives citrus, stone and sea-spray flavours with a full body. Santorini is its home and its benchmark; mainland and island versions elsewhere are cheaper and lighter.

Keeps very high acidity even in heat and gives citrus, stone and sea-spray flavours with a full body. Santorini is its home and its benchmark; mainland and island versions elsewhere are cheaper and lighter.

white

Tastes like: Lemon, lime, flint, sea salt; honey and toast with age or oak

Where it shines: Santorini first; also Crete, Macedonia and the Peloponnese

Order: A Santorini PDO with grilled fish; mainland Assyrtiko for an everyday price

Xinomavro: pale ruby, firm tannin, high acid - the Barolo of Greece.

The name means sour black. Expect red cherry, olive, sun-dried tomato and tobacco, with grip in youth and a long life. It also makes dry rosé and sparkling wine in Amyntaio.

The name means sour black. Expect red cherry, olive, sun-dried tomato and tobacco, with grip in youth and a long life. It also makes dry rosé and sparkling wine in Amyntaio.

red

Tastes like: Red cherry, black olive, sun-dried tomato, dried herbs; leather and forest floor with age

Where it shines: Naoussa, Amyntaio, Goumenissa and Rapsani

Order: A Naoussa Xinomavro with braised lamb or aged hard cheese

Agiorgitiko: soft, juicy, plummy red - Greece's easy-going crowd-pleaser.

The most planted Greek red. Fresh versions from lower slopes taste of cherry and strawberry; mid-altitude Nemea gives deeper plum and spice, and the best oaked wines age well. It also makes fine rosé.

The most planted Greek red. Fresh versions from lower slopes taste of cherry and strawberry; mid-altitude Nemea gives deeper plum and spice, and the best oaked wines age well. It also makes fine rosé.

red

Tastes like: Cherry, plum, soft tannin; spice and cedar when oaked

Where it shines: Nemea, Peloponnese

Order: A mid-altitude Nemea with stifado or souvlaki

Moschofilero: pink-skinned, floral, crisp - rose petal and white peach.

A fragrant, light-bodied white with high acidity from the cool Mantinia plateau. Delicate and aromatic like Muscat, but dry; some traditional-method sparkling is made too.

A fragrant, light-bodied white with high acidity from the cool Mantinia plateau. Delicate and aromatic like Muscat, but dry; some traditional-method sparkling is made too.

white

Tastes like: Rose petal, jasmine, white peach, orange zest

Where it shines: Mantinia, central Peloponnese

Order: A Mantinia with grilled octopus or feta

Malagousia: rescued from near-extinction, now a perfumed, round white.

Nearly lost by the 1970s and revived from remnant vines, it gives peach blossom, herbs and a fuller body than most Greek whites. Often blended with Assyrtiko for weight.

Nearly lost by the 1970s and revived from remnant vines, it gives peach blossom, herbs and a fuller body than most Greek whites. Often blended with Assyrtiko for weight.

white

Tastes like: Peach blossom, nectarine, fresh herbs, citrus; round texture

Where it shines: Macedonia, Central Greece, Thessaly, Attica

Order: A northern Greek Malagousia with mezze or grilled vegetables

Savatiano: Greece's workhorse white, the grape behind Retsina.

The most planted Greek white, grown mainly around Athens. Traditionally simple, round and fruity, and the base for Retsina. A newer wave makes dry unresinated and skin-contact versions with more texture.

The most planted Greek white, grown mainly around Athens. Traditionally simple, round and fruity, and the base for Retsina. A newer wave makes dry unresinated and skin-contact versions with more texture.

white

Tastes like: Yellow apple, honeydew, cut grass; creamier with oak

Where it shines: Attica, Evia and Boeotia

Order: A chilled bottled Retsina with fried fish and meze

Roditis: light, lemony pink-skinned white for casual meals.

A widely planted everyday white that tastes of lemon and green fruit. Traditionally simple and a taverna staple, now being pushed toward more serious wines by some producers.

A widely planted everyday white that tastes of lemon and green fruit. Traditionally simple and a taverna staple, now being pushed toward more serious wines by some producers.

white

Tastes like: Lemon, green apple, mineral; light to medium body

Where it shines: Mainland Greece; the standard taverna white

Order: A glass of local Roditis with mezze

Vidiano: Crete's textured white - apricot, honey, mineral and oily.

A hard-to-grow Cretan grape rescued in recent decades and now seen as the island's best white. It has peach and apricot fruit, a rich, slightly oily feel and fresh acidity, often compared to Viognier or Roussanne.

A hard-to-grow Cretan grape rescued in recent decades and now seen as the island's best white. It has peach and apricot fruit, a rich, slightly oily feel and fresh acidity, often compared to Viognier or Roussanne.

white

Tastes like: Peach, apricot, honey, mineral; textured and rounded

Where it shines: Crete

Order: A Cretan Vidiano with seafood or cheese pies

Robola: Cephalonia's lemony, flinty white with piercing acidity.

Grown almost only on Cephalonia, with the best sites high on limestone slopes. Light to medium in body, with lemon, white peach and a stony, smoky finish. The only Greek zone named after a single grape.

Grown almost only on Cephalonia, with the best sites high on limestone slopes. Light to medium in body, with lemon, white peach and a stony, smoky finish. The only Greek zone named after a single grape.

white

Tastes like: Lemon, white peach, flint, stone

Where it shines: Cephalonia (Mount Ainos slopes)

Order: A Robola of Cephalonia with shellfish or grilled whole fish

Mavrodaphne: black grape for sweet, wood-aged fortified red.

Mostly grown in the Peloponnese around Patras and on Cephalonia, which has its own zone. The classic wine is sweet and fortified, aged in wood and tasting of raisins and spice; a few producers now make dry red from it.

Mostly grown in the Peloponnese around Patras and on Cephalonia, which has its own zone. The classic wine is sweet and fortified, aged in wood and tasting of raisins and spice; a few producers now make dry red from it.

red

Tastes like: Raisin, prune, coffee, spice; dry versions darker and firm

Where it shines: Patras (Achaia) and Cephalonia

Order: Mavrodaphne of Patras after dinner, with dark chocolate or nuts

Muscat: Samos, Patras and Cephalonia's sweet, grapey classic.

Muscat (Muscat à Petits Grains) is the grape behind Greece's best-known sweet whites, from Samos and Patras to Cephalonia. Expect lychee and marmalade, from lightly sweet to fortified and syrupy.

Muscat (Muscat à Petits Grains) is the grape behind Greece's best-known sweet whites, from Samos and Patras to Cephalonia. Expect lychee and marmalade, from lightly sweet to fortified and syrupy.

white (sweet)

Tastes like: Lychee, orange marmalade, honey, flowers

Where it shines: Samos, Patras, Cephalonia, Lemnos

Order: A glass of Muscat of Samos with fruit tart or nuts

Kotsifali and Mandilaria: Crete's red pair - soft fruit plus structure.

Cretan reds are usually blends: Kotsifali brings sweet, soft fruit and Mandilaria colour and tannin. The result is warm, spicy wine closer to the northern Rhône than to Bordeaux.

Cretan reds are usually blends: Kotsifali brings sweet, soft fruit and Mandilaria colour and tannin. The result is warm, spicy wine closer to the northern Rhône than to Bordeaux.

red

Tastes like: Dark cherry, warm spice, firm tannin

Where it shines: Crete (Mandilaria also on Rhodes)

Order: A Cretan Kotsifali-Mandilaria with grilled lamb

Liatiko: Crete's pale, floral red, Pinot-like and bottle-ageworthy.

An old Cretan red that is pale in colour but fresh and floral, with red fruit and spice. Delicate and fresh, it suits those seeking something different, and it also appears in sweet wines.

Liatiko is one of Crete's old native reds and one of the most distinctive to taste. It is a pale red that is prone to bronzing at the rim, which can look unfashionable next to deep, dark wines. That is part of its appeal: aromatics of red fruit, dried flowers and spice, a light, fresh palate and a style some compare to Pinot Noir. Wines often improve with a few years in bottle. Historically it has been better known as a sweet wine, made from dried grapes, and it is still used that way. It is a light, savoury local red from a grape found almost nowhere else, which makes it the Cretan wine to ask about. Try a glass at a taverna, then look for a bottle at a small producer.

red

Tastes like: Red cherry, dried flowers, spice; light colour

Where it shines: Crete (Sitia and Heraklion hills)

Order: A Liatiko red or sweet with a thoughtful local meal

Limnio: Lemnos's ancient red, herbal and full-bodied with bay-leaf notes.

A native of Lemnos used for over two thousand years. It gives full-bodied, fairly strong red with a herbal, bay-leaf character and is now a part of Greece's rediscovery of old grapes.

Limnio, also called Kalambaki, is among the oldest named grape varieties of the Aegean and is closely tied to the island of Lemnos, where it has been grown for a very long time. The wine is full in body and fairly strong, with a distinctive herbal side, often described as bay leaf, over dark fruit. For travellers, Limnio belongs in the discovery group with Liatiko and Mavrotragano: a Greek red that few people at home have tried. The sweet Muscat of Lemnos is the island's other wine. Expect a savoury, aromatic red rather than a jammy one.

red

Tastes like: Bay leaf, dried herbs, red and black fruit; full body

Where it shines: Lemnos and northern Aegean

Order: A Limnio red from Lemnos, wherever you find one

Ask for the house wine by the half-litre or litre carafe.

Most tavernas pour a house wine (krasi tou spitiou) by the half-litre or litre. Order it by colour - lefko, kokkino or roze - and expect a simple, local wine made to go with the food.

Most tavernas pour a house wine (krasi tou spitiou) by the half-litre or litre. Order it by colour - lefko, kokkino or roze - and expect a simple, local wine made to go with the food.

Tip: Say the colour: lefko, kokkino or roze

Order a bottle when you want to learn what a grape tastes like.

Carafe wine has no label, so you learn nothing you can buy again. A short list of Greek bottles lets you try a named grape and place. The waiter will pour a small taste first.

Carafe wine has no label, so you learn nothing you can buy again. A short list of Greek bottles lets you try a named grape and place. The waiter will pour a small taste first.

Tip: Pick one native grape you do not know and ask which zone it is from

Retsina belongs with meze and fried fish, well chilled.

Cold Retsina cuts the oil of fried calamari and salty cured fish. Order a bottled one from a quality producer; a harsh carafe version can be softened with soda water.

Cold Retsina cuts the oil of fried calamari and salty cured fish. Order a bottled one from a quality producer; a harsh carafe version can be softened with soda water.

Tip: Ask for a bottled Retsina, not just 'Retsina'

Wine bars in cities pour Greek bottles by the glass.

Athens and the larger islands have wine bars with many Greek bottles by the glass, the easiest way to try several grapes. Many also sell bottles to take away.

Athens and the larger islands have wine bars with many Greek bottles by the glass, the easiest way to try several grapes. Many also sell bottles to take away.

Tip: Ask for a flight of three native grapes

Match white to seafood and red to lamb: Greek food is built for it.

Shared meze, grilled fish and salads suit crisp whites such as Assyrtiko, Moschofilero or Robola. Lamb, stews and aged cheese suit Xinomavro or Agiorgitiko. Order a white and a red for the table.

Shared meze, grilled fish and salads suit crisp whites such as Assyrtiko, Moschofilero or Robola. Lamb, stews and aged cheese suit Xinomavro or Agiorgitiko. Order a white and a red for the table.

Tip: Start with white for meze, keep a red for the mains

Tsipouro, ouzo and raki are served with food, not as a shot.

Ouzo is diluted with cold water and sipped slowly with meze. Tsipouro is common in the north and arrives in small glasses with rounds of food. In Crete, tsikoudia (raki) is often brought free after a meal.

Ouzo is diluted with cold water and sipped slowly with meze. Tsipouro is common in the north and arrives in small glasses with rounds of food. In Crete, tsikoudia (raki) is often brought free after a meal.

Tip: Say yes to the free raki in Crete

Kava: the Greek wine shop, often with barrel wine to taste.

A kava sells bottles and often wine from the barrel, and staff will usually let you taste first. Good for local and regional bottles you will not find at home.

A kava sells bottles and often wine from the barrel, and staff will usually let you taste first. Good for local and regional bottles you will not find at home.

Tip: Ask what is best from the nearest zone

Buy at the winery or from a farmer-producer on the islands.

Small producers sell directly, and on islands farmers sometimes sell their own bottled wine at grocers or roadside. Older vintages and small bottlings turn up there.

Small producers sell directly, and on islands farmers sometimes sell their own bottled wine at grocers or roadside. Older vintages and small bottlings turn up there.

Tip: Ask about older vintages or a library bottle

City wine bars double as bottle shops.

Many wine bars in Athens and larger towns sell bottles to take home as well as by the glass, which lets you taste before you buy.

Many wine bars in Athens and larger towns sell bottles to take home as well as by the glass, which lets you taste before you buy.

Tip: Taste a glass, then buy the bottle

Supermarkets and bakaliko stores stock solid everyday bottles.

Grocers and supermarkets carry everyday Greek reds, whites and bottled Retsina at low prices. Fine for the picnic or the evening, less so for gifts.

Grocers and supermarkets carry everyday Greek reds, whites and bottled Retsina at low prices. Fine for the picnic or the evening, less so for gifts.

Tip: Choose a named zone over a generic 'table wine' label

Harvest runs from late summer into October.

Different grapes ripen at different times, and the late ones, such as Moschofilero, are picked well into October. Wineries are busy then, so book visits ahead.

Different grapes ripen at different times, and the late ones, such as Moschofilero, are picked well into October. Wineries are busy then, so book visits ahead.

Tip: Ask about harvest events when booking

Plan by geography: Greece is mountainous and its wine zones are spread out.

Mainland zones are usually reached by car along slow mountain roads, and island zones by ferry or flight. Build the trip around one or two regions rather than several.

Mainland zones are usually reached by car along slow mountain roads, and island zones by ferry or flight. Build the trip around one or two regions rather than several.

Tip: Pair a mainland region with an island, not two distant ones

Spring and early autumn are the best seasons to visit.

Summers are hot and dry, especially in the south and on Crete, and island towns are busy. Spring and autumn give milder weather and quieter wineries.

Summers are hot and dry, especially in the south and on Crete, and island towns are busy. Spring and autumn give milder weather and quieter wineries.

Tip: Avoid mid-August if you want a relaxed tasting

Carry bottles home wrapped in checked luggage.

Wine travels well in padded luggage or wine sleeves. Sweet wines, Vinsanto and Mavrodaphne in particular, are the easiest and most unusual things to pack.

Wine travels well in padded luggage or wine sleeves. Sweet wines, Vinsanto and Mavrodaphne in particular, are the easiest and most unusual things to pack.

Tip: Ask the winery whether they can ship